Included in the rack of Nakamichi “System One” equipment I recently acquired was a 600Ⅱ two head cassette console. This is the same rack that was involved in a building fire and the previously repaired Nakamichi 620 amplifier.
The 600Ⅱ is an updated version of the Nakamichi 600 two head cassette console, and was produced from 1978 to 1979. The 600Ⅱ uses a new crystalloid super head with a 0.9 micron gap, which allows recording and playback at 20 kHz.
Other features include Dolby B noise reduction, a 19kHz multiplex filter for FM radio recording, Type
It uses a precise mechanical transport with a sensor for tape end auto-stop, is capable of auto-play on power on, has a memory stop function, and will also stop and release the transport on power-off.
The 600Ⅱ had significantly more smoke intrusion and damage than the model 620, and also required a full disassembly and cleaning including the tape transport.
Starting off I had my doubts if I would be able to get this unit back to perfect working condition. Partly due to all the smoke residue, but also because I was missing a lot of the specific equipment and test fixtures needed to adjust and calibrate this model.
As the saying goes “Nothing ventured nothing gained” kept popping into my thoughts.
The first items that were worked on were the main and plug-in circuit boards. After an initial cleaning with 91% Isopropyl alcohol (IPA), I switched to 99.9% IPA, and then to DeoxIT for all the potentiometer, switches, and connectors. After everything was clean I replaced all the electrolytic capacitors used in the power filtering sections of the boards, but left the original electrolytic capacitors in the audio path circuits. An initial check of several removed audio path capacitors that all tested in very good condition made me feel a lot better about leaving them, and would also reduce the need to re-calibrate the unit.
The analog peak level meters were also especially dirty and required a lot of delicate cleaning to get them looking good again. Both of the 12 volt incandescent illumination lamps were both good so I left them as-is. Surprisingly the cushioning foam was also in great shape and showed no sign of deterioration.
The power supply was completely re-capped with Nichicon electrolytic capacitors, and heat sink compound was added to the board heat sink to frame connection.
Now that all of the component assemblies had been worked on with the exception of the tape transport, it was time to reassemble them into the frame again. This would also clear off a good portion of the bench for working on the complicated tape transport.
The first step to working on the tape transport was to remove the cassette case assembly which would allow access to other components and make cleaning easier.
One of the first things I noticed after removing the case assembly was the wonky position of the tape heads. Both the record / playback and the erase heads were set at an odd angle, and the azimuth adjustment was fully bottomed out.
This did not seem right to me and would need to be checked out further later.
There was a lot of cleaning done on the transport which involved not only the smoke, but also lots of old gooey grease and oil. Most of the mechanisms still moved freely with the exception of the idler pulley pivot which was frozen in it’s center position. The idler pully itself turned freely, but the arm would not move to the fast forward or rewind positions.
A little DeoxIT D5 worked well for freeing up the pivot after around five minutes of gentle persuasion. After cleaning up the remaining old grease the pivot and idler pulley were re-lubricated with a light sewing machine oil.
I ordered a new set of belts and tires for the real hub assemblies, and while waiting for the shipment I started working on the transport electronics. Other than cleaning, the governor board was in good shape, but the Shut-off board needed a bit more work.
I initially replaced the two large electrolytic capacitors in the power and solenoid sections, but also found two bad 33uf @ 16V capacitors in the timing sections of the board.
After finding the two bad capacitors I decided to also replace the remaining four capacitors on the board. Before replacing the capacitors the auto-stop function was not working, and all functions now worked properly after the capacitor replacements.
After the new belts and tires were installed I performed some initial adjustments with my oscilloscope and frequency counter. The heads were way out of alignment as I suspected and I am guessing that I have everything set to within 85% of where it should be. The unit sounds good with great hi-frequency response, so the azimuth should also be close to the optimal setting.
Unfortunately this is about as far as I can go with this unit for now. To properly adjust the tape transport I would need to purchase or borrow some torque reading cassettes, along with a set of alignment and calibration tapes. Currently way out of my budget.
The unit sounds good and plays tapes well, but I know it is capable of performing much better than this. Another project for a latter day.
Hi there
I enjoyed reading this blog.
I have a question since I also have a unit that needs repairing. When you dissasembled the main cassette assembly, how did you remove the hinged cassette tray? It pivots on a bar that is held in place by the two side plates and 2 e‑clips. Did you remove all the screws holding one of those side plates in place before you could remove the tray. I’m being cautious so I have not done so. The service manual isn’t helpful. It suggests that you can just remove the clips and slide the bar out which definitely can’t be done on my unit.
Any help is appreciated.
Thank you
I seem to remember loosening several screws, but not removing all of them on one side of the chassis near the counter.
And then sliding the pivot shaft sideways to clear the mounting holes. With E clips removed first.
Good luck on your repair.
Greg (Barbouri)
Hi, thank you for the detailed description of your repair. I have the same unit and I’m trying to figure out how to replace the idler tire(s). Do you happen to have a procedure for this?
Hi Rubin,
Basically I used a small flat blade screwdriver to gently remove the old rubber from the slots in the hubs and the inserted the new idler tired into the hub slots after a full cleaning of the hubs.
Take care not to overstretch the new tires when reinstalling them into the hub slots.
Good luck,
Greg (Barbouri)
Hi Greg,
I’m wondering if the 600II has the same motor controller circuit (or very similar) to the older Nak 500? On the Nak 500, the same motor changes speed and direction according to the PLAY/RW/FF mode.
From the photos that you’ve posted, the transport is very similar.
The Nakamich 600 is a very desirable looking machine.
Kind wishes,
James.
I’ve been looking at the schematics, it seems both Nak 600 and the later 600II employ the uPC1003C controller! The older Nak 500 does not.